|When developing new branches, particularly
on deciduous trees, winter is the best time to make decisions, plan out what you would
like the branch to do, then as the buds develop you can select one pointing in the
direction you wish the growth to go and prune accordingly.
Later as the branch structure appears, on each extention cut beyond the second bud. This will eventually lead to a fine tracery of thin branches (this is called 'Ramification').
This is what is meant by ramification, a mass of fine branches that add to the overall imression of a large tree in minature. The tree is shown in winter, after leaf drop.
The advantage of lots of fine branches are that they can only support small leaves (desirable in a bonsai) and the tree will still look good when it has no leaves on.
Conifers differ in that you will have to work within the existing branch structure, allowing some areas to grow on while pruning others back hard to develop a fine tracery of branches, and of course with conifers not shedding their leaves the viewing of a fine branch structure is irrelevant.
Pines because of their growth pattern can be developed by pruning.
|When selecting garden center stock for converting to a bonsai try to avoid material where all the branch structure is on a straight stem, this 'lollypop' will look unnatural, however you can overcome this by wiring some curvature into it.|
You may have a situation where you have a smaller branch below a larger branch, or wish to give extra 'weight' to a lower branch, allowing the leading shoot to extend, will cause the branch to thicken. Later when the extention has served it's purpose you should cut it off.
Developing branches on conifers is generally the same, however pines are slightly different.
© Allen. C. Roffey 06:26 05/05/2001